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Archive of previous tipsHow to Deal With Bad DogsHow to Survive Road HazardsHow to Choose a Bike ClubThree Essential Techniques for RoadiesHydrate for Better Performance How to Deal With Bad DogsBy Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com Dog attacks are high on the list of cycling fears. Maybe you can’t stop Fang from giving chase, but you can outsmart him if you know how dogs think—assuming that stinkin’ mutt even has a brain!
If the same dog accosts you every time you ride the road, report this to the authorities, too. You have a right to use public roadways free from fear for your life, liberty and pursuit of cycling happiness. Keep following up with calls to make sure steps are taken to put PupPup on a rope. City Limits. If you're in the city limits and you get chased by a dog, call the police. Every city I've ever been in has leash laws. If the dog is not in the house or in a fenced in area, he's supposed to be on leash. Make the owner responsible for his dog's misbehavior. He should be. Aim for them. One tactic that I've found works very well if the dog is already in the street is to steer right at him. If he moves to your right, steer to your right keeping your bike headed right in his direction. He'll spend so much time trying to get out of your way that he's back pedaling (no pun intended) and that gives you a great opportunity to sprint away from him when you're right on top. Wild goose chase. If they're not too much of a threat as far as speed and continue to chase, I'll slow down to get their interest again and then speed up when they get close. Every time they begin to lose interest, I'll slow down and call them. I once led a dog about 2 miles from home and then ran off and left him. Every other time I rode by his house he just sat in the driveway and watched as I rode by and I never heard of that dog chasing anybody else on a bicycle again. Dog StoryTo close, I just want to tell one short dog story. My brother and I were riding out in the boonies one day, came around a turn and noticed a long fence with a big Rotweiller on the other side of that fence. He started running along inside the fence actually going faster than we were. No problem, we thought until we looked up and noticed the fence ended about 30 yards up the road. We're pedaling as fast as we possibly can and he's still running faster than us. All this time, he's looking over at us with a look of glee in his eyes and saliva being thrown from his mouth. He sees lunch ahead. Apparently while he was watching us he forgot to notice the steel pole in the yard and ran headlong right into it. You should have heard that pole ring and I'm sure his head as well. I've never heard a sweeter sound in my life. As hard as he hit that pole, I wouldn't be surprised if he had cracked his head. We didn't stick around to find out. I bet it was a while before he thought about chasing any bicycles again. How to Survive Road HazardsBy Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com Cycling is a unique sport because its arena is the open road. That’s the same place frequented by traffic, potholes, snarling dogs and absentminded pedestrians. But sometimes we’re our own worst enemy. Inattention and poor technique can put us on the pavement as fast as any hazard. Use these tips and you’ll be less likely to take a tumble.
PuncturesIt’s every rider’s fate to flat. But it’s relatively easy to limit the frequency.
PotholesHitting potholes can bend your rims beyond repair. If the chasm is deep enough, it will send you hurtling over the handlebar when you bury the front wheel and the bike suddenly stops. Here’s a primer on pothole evasion.
Railroad TracksUnlike most dangers, tracks can’t be ridden around. You can suffer an instant crash if your tires slip on the shiny steel rails. Ride with extreme caution and follow these safety tips.
Additional Slick Spots
How to Choose a Bike ClubLet's face it. Riding with a group is usually much more enjoyable that riding alone. Besides the scintillating conversation, there's also the opportunity to push each other, making each other better cyclists in the process. But, what club or what type of club should you join. Obviously any club you join should be compatible with your riding style. Fred Matheny gives some good hints here. By Fred Matheny of www.RoadBikeRider.com Cycling can be a solo sport. Long rambles through the spring countryside, hard rides in the hills, weekend tours to scenic areas—all can be enjoyed with only your own thoughts for company. In fact, many cyclists prefer to go alone. Then they can choose their own route and are free to ride hard or stop and smell the flowers, as their fancy prefers. But cycling is also the perfect group sport. Here are just five good reasons for riding with others:
To get these benefits, it’s a good idea to join a bike club even if you ride alone much of the time due to preference or your schedule. But if there are two or more clubs in your area, how do you know which one to join? It depends on what you want to do and how you want to do it. Are you interested in recreational rides or racing? Get to know area cyclists and ask why they joined the club they did. Go to club events to watch the organization and feel the atmosphere. Sit in on a club’s monthly meeting to hear about issues and see what kind of people are at the helm. Participate in club rides and tune in to the tenor of the group. Is it supportive or critical of other riders? Remember, if you enjoy cycling, you should enjoy it even more in the company of fellow riders. It pays to pick your club carefully. Recreational/Touring ClubsMost clubs are geared to promoting fun rides and tours. Here are some ways you can identify a club that’s doing it right.
Racing ClubsSome recreational/touring clubs have a racing division, while other clubs are strictly racing organizations. They exist to help talented cyclists achieve competitive goals. If you want to race, joining a good racing club is a key step toward realizing your potential. Some clubs are geared to junior riders, some to masters, and others concentrate on Category 1-5 riders. If you find two or more clubs that seem meet your needs, make your choice using this criteria:
This may mean the coach is certified by USA Cycling (the governing body of U.S. bike racing), but many fine coaches don’t have formal certification. Good coaches have time to work with young or inexperienced cyclists. They have the patience to bring beginning cyclists along slowly, letting them develop at their own rate without undue pressure. Good coaches aren’t slaves to one coaching system. They don’t blindly follow some formula but instead devise training and racing strategies geared to individual cyclists.
In the winter, riders meet for weight training and stationary bike work. They train together in the early season, doing long base-building rides. They practice team tactics on training rides and use them in races. They travel to events together, sometimes in a team van.
There’s usually a local time trial series and a weekly evening criterium in which members hone their skills for the real races on the weekend. These practice races are a good measure of the club. Look for events that start on time, are well organized and take place on safe-but-challenging courses. Cycling is a relatively expensive sport, so good clubs work hard to secure sponsorships from non-cycling companies as well as from the industry and bike shops. These sponsorships help cover the cost of clothing, equipment and travel. Shops also may offer parts and service discounts to club members.
Team members encourage each other with advice and consolation. (One sure sign of a poor club is people yelling at each other on training rides, dispensing criticism instead of support.) Training rides should be designed to help everyone improve. Race strategy should be based on teamwork rather than on showcasing star athletes. OK. What does this mean to you if you live in or around the Tulsa area? In Tulsa there are 2 clubs dedicated primarily to bicycling, Tulsa Bicycle Club (TBC) and The Tulsa Wheelmen Bicycle Club (Wheelmen). TBC is more of a general bicycle club, attracting riders of all types while the Wheelmen's membership is mainly performance oriented cyclists, but unfortunately it appears as if they're headed for extinction. That doesn't mean that if you're a tourist you can't belong to the Wheelmen of if you a racer you can't join TBC. I'm just trying to point out the differences in the clubs. They both welcome cyclists of all experience levels and who are interested in all types of riding. There are other 'splinter' groups or just a collection of people that ride together on occasion such as The MidTown Social Club or Team Crude. If you were to come out the Wednesday night ride in Tulsa, you'd see different groups scattered around in the parking lot. Generally these people will do other rides together at different times. Don't feel shy about approaching them and inquiring about joining in on future rides. You might make some new friends and have a great time in the process. Three Essential Techniques for RoadiesEverybody can use a little bit of help every once in a while. I'm pretty sure that somebody that rides a bicycle for a living has something to contribute, even to you. By Fred Matheny of www.RoadBikeRider.com Pro athletes develop simple techniques that become automatic. A three-point shooter’s follow through or a golfer’s silky stroke are techniques they’ve honed until they no longer think about them. Pro cyclists, too, develop characteristics that separate how they look on a bike from the rest of us. It’s not simply a matter of appearance. Unlike golf, when you’re riding, you can get scuffed up out there. Looking like a pro means safety as well as style. Want the look?
Master these three techniques and you’ll be on your way. 1. Relax.
Great athletes in any sport let it flow, making impossible moves and extreme
effort look easy. Here’s how to be loose as a goose on the bike:
2. Pedal
Smoothly. It’s easy to spot the smooth
pedal stroke of a pro compared to a novice’s lumpy plodding. Here’s how to get
supple stroke:
3. Recover Fast.
Pro riders can do a three-week race and go just as hard on Day 20 as in the
prologue time trial. Here’s how to recover like a stage racer:
Hydrate for Better PerformanceCamelbak has a slogan, 'Hydrate or Die'. I don't know anybody who has actually died from not drinking from riding their bike, but I do know quite a few people that suffered from dehydration by not drinking enough. In the olden days, it was thought that not drinking made you tougher. It can make you sick or even kill you. By Fred Matheny of www.RoadBikeRider.com If it’s the summer cycling season, it’s probably hot where you live. Cyclists and other outdoor athletes are the first to notice rising temperatures. And the hotter it is, the faster you lose fluids when you ride. Fluids are crucial to your performance and sense of well-being. We’re really just big bags of fluid—our blood contains about 50 percent water. Because water helps keep us cool, a loss of only one percent of our bodyweight as sweat means a significant loss of speed and endurance. I know you’ve heard it before—drink, drink, drink! But it’s amazing how few cyclists heed this advice. They forget to drink because of the excitement of the ride, then they wilt before the end. But proper hydration is easy. Here’s how:
Jim and I have taken to wearing watches with countdown timers that we set to go off every 7.5 minutes to remind us to drink. We don't slug down half the bottle then, just take enough so that we won't dehydrate. I'm not saying you need to do this same thing, but it is important to drink regularly and before you need to, not after it's too late. It also reminds you to drink early in the ride before you feel like you actually need it. Maybe 7.5 minutes is too frequent for you. I started at 15 minutes and worked my way down to 7.5 and find it ideal. How to Find a 'Safe Saddle'By Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com Since the late 1990s, saddle design has seen major innovation. A big impetus came from a prominent doctor's contention that sitting on a bike seat might lead to damaged nerves or blood vessels in some men. This risk, plus the occasional bout of temporary genital numbness that many riders experience, put designers into action. The result is a new generation of saddles with special shapes, padding or cutouts to reduce crotch contact and pressure. As a side benefit, riders have found that they experience fewer saddle sores on these seats. Saddle selection is highly individual. Despite how effective a saddle might look or how highly praised it might be by a riding buddy, there's no guarantee that it will be comfortable for you. You need to ride it to tell. Here are some selection guidelines, followed by two things you must do to further reduce risks and discomforts: (1) develop a good riding position, and (2) use smart riding techniques. Saddle SelectionWidth. Squat and sit on a low stool or curb. What you feel supporting your weight is your ischial tuberosities, the points of the pelvis that are commonly called the "sit bones." These are what should support your weight on a saddle. A seat that's too narrow will place your weight on the soft tissue between your sit bones -- for men, on the perineum where the penile nerves and blood vessels are located. Women also need to put a high priority on width because, on average, they have wider sit bones than men. Anatomically designed women's saddles are a bit wider in the main sitting area. Curvature. Looked at from the rear at eye level, a seat should be flat or only very slightly domed. A significant curve causes your sit bones to be lower than the saddle's center, contributing to crotch pressure. Dip. Looked at from the side at eye level, a seat should be nearly flat from nose to tail. A slight dip (say six degrees or less) is helpful to give you a feeling for the saddle's center while riding. More dip creates positioning problems. That is, when the nose is set level, the tail sticks up and may be uncomfortable to sit on; when the tail is set level, the nose goes up and exerts pressure right where you don't want it. Padding. Some is good, more is not better. You want enough foam or gel to cushion your sit bones for comfort. Thick padding can actually increase crotch pressure because as your sit bones sink in, this has the effect of making the center press upward. Special sections. These are what set the new generation of saddles apart. These sections range from gel-padded areas, to wedge-shaped cutouts, to holes through the top. Rider reactions to these innovations are all over the board. Do they lessen contact or pressure? No doubt. Do they absolutely, positively prevent numbness or worse problems? No saddle maker can guarantee that. Are they comfortable? It depends on whom you ask. The saddle that one rider swears by will be the same saddle the next rider swear at. There's simply no way of knowing until you ride on a given design. Some bike shops have a test ride program or will allow you to return a saddle that you simply can't stand. Saddle PositionPlease check our guidelines in the article, How to Perfect Your Riding Position & Technique. You'll find advice for setting saddle height, tilt and fore/aft location. Of course, don't stop at the saddle. Go though all of the steps to get an overall well-balanced riding position. If your saddle position is right but your handlebar position isn't, you still might run into problems. TIP! For many guys, a saddle that's slightly off center (compared to the top tube) feels more comfortable. If the nose keeps pressing you in the wrong spot, try a bit of left or right angle. According to Andy Pruitt, Ed.D., who has refined the positions of many top cyclists, the right approach is always to make the bike fit your body instead of making your body fit the bike. Riding TechniquesThe rule is simple: Don't sit statically in one place for more than a few minutes. When you keep moving on the saddle, as well as on and off the saddle, you avoid constant pressure and compression. Blood keeps circulating, nerve transmissions keep flowing, and the risk of numbness is greatly reduced. This is pretty easy to do off-road, where terrain changes and body English keep your crotch from locking into a set position. It's harder on a road bike unless you cultivate some good habits. For example, get out of the saddle for at least part of every hill. Stand when exiting every turn or any other time you need to accelerate. Even just a few seconds is helpful when repeated often. On a ride in flat terrain, shift to a higher gear so you can stand and pedal out of the saddle for at least 30 seconds every 20 minutes. When sitting, keep your butt far enough back for your sit bones to be supported by the seat's wide rear section. Beware of the tendency to creep forward onto the nose and dwell there, especially when pushing hard or riding in a low position. Other PointersIf you use an aero bar, you'll tend to lock into a low, forward position for minutes on end. It's a nuisance, and it takes effort, to break this position to stand. But it's risky if you don't. Also, try to stay back on the wide area of the saddle. Tilting the nose down 1 or 2 degrees can reduce crotch pressure, but more will tend to make you slide forward onto the skinny nose. Ride like a jockey when you come to anything rough. By leveling the pedals, flexing your knees and holding your butt an inch above the saddle, you'll avoid impacts that can cause bruising and pain. A shock-absorbing seatpost is another way to reduce the risk, but don't let it lull you into remaining seated all the time. Carry stuff on your bike, not on your body. This isn't always possible, but realize that when you ride with a backpack, fanny pack or hydration system, you are adding weight to your seat. This makes a wide, supportive saddle even more important. The same goes if you're overweight. Be smart when riding indoors. With no terrain changes or other natural opportunities to move your butt, you need to invent some. Pedal out of the saddle for one minute in every five. Consciously move to a different sitting area every couple of minutes. Keep sessions short and varied rather than long and steady. Using bigger gears lightens saddle pressure because your feet must push harder. Wear high-quality, lightly padded cycling shorts. These, plus a skin lubricant such as Chamois Butt'r, increase comfort and reduce the risk of developing raw or tender spots. These can stop you from shifting position to all parts of your crotch and the saddle. How to Eat for EnduranceBy Fred Matheny of www.RoadBikeRider.com The key to riding long distances is food and drink. Sure, training is important—but nutrition and hydration are even more vital. According to ultramarathon rider and coach John Hughes of Boulder, Colorado, “Nutrition, not necessarily training, is the limiting factor in endurance cycling.” The reason? Even the best-trained riders pack only enough muscle fuel (glycogen) for a couple of hours of hard cycling. Fluid stores vanish even faster. For everything from century rides to multi-day tours, remember these time-tested tips: Enjoy the Last Supper. Eat aggressively the night before a long ride so your muscles are crammed with glycogen the next morning. Emphasize carbohydrates such as pasta, vegetables, bread, whole grains, and fruit. Don’t forget dessert! Don’t Skip Breakfast. Cycling’s smooth pedaling motion means you can eat just before a long ride without risking stomach upset. You’ll need a full tank. Cycling consumes about 40 calories per mile, or 4,000 calories in a century ride. Three hours before the start, eat about 60 grams of carbohydrate if you’re an average-sized woman, 80 to 100 if you’re a man. (Cereal, skim milk, a banana, and a bagel with jam equals about 90 grams of carbo.) Many riders find that adding some protein and fat, like scrambled eggs or an omelet, keeps their stomach satisfied longer. Prehydrate. Fluids are as important as food. Drink at least eight big glasses of water the day before the ride. If you don’t, your performance and comfort may plummet by mile 50. During the hour before the ride, sip 16 ounces of a sports drink. Eat and Drink During the Ride. Drink before you feel thirsty. Your sensation of thirst lags behind your need for liquid, so grab your bottle every 15 minutes and take a couple of big swallow (about four ounces). About every 30 minutes, eat 20 grams of carbohydrate—the equivalent of half an energy bar, several fig bars or half a banana. Some riders prefer smaller portions more frequently. On unsupported rides, use a backpack-style hydration system and carry food in your pockets. Stop at convenience stores along the way, if necessary. Most organized rides have aid stations every 20 miles or so, but always carry food and fluid just in case. Hydrate After the Ride. No matter how much you drink on a long ride you’ll finish dehydrated. Weigh yourself before and after, then compare the figures. Lost weight means you’ve failed to replace the fluid you’ve sweated out. Drink 20 ounces of water or sports drink for each lost pound of bodyweight. How do you know you’ve caught up? Your urine will be pale and plentiful, and your weight will be back to normal. Rehydrating is especially vital during multiday rides. If you get a little behind each day, by the end of the week you’ll be severely dehydrated, feeling lousy, and riding poorly. Eat for Tomorrow. Muscles replace glycogen better if you consume carbohydrate immediately after riding. So within 15 minutes of getting off the bike, eat or drink 60 grams of carbohydrate (if you’re an average-sized woman) or 80 to 100 grams if you’re an average male. The re-fueling process becomes progressively less efficient as time passes. Eat or drink a high-carbo snack while chewing the fat with your riding buddies. Receive a FREE copy of the eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the RoadBikeRider Newsletter at www.RoadBikeRider.com. No cost or obligation! |
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Last modified: February 20, 2005
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